Leaving Imlil and the Jebel Toubkal behind, we began the long drive north east through the High Atlas to the Valley of the Roses.
We stayed with our guide Ibrâhîm and were joined by the driver Muḥammad (not the cook, the muleteer or Ibrâhîm’s boss but another Muḥammad). We wove our way through the valleys and passed through villages and towns, stopping at some wonderful viewpoints for photos, freshly squeezed orange juice or simply to gaze about us at the stunning landscapes of Morocco.
Some hours later we reached the 11th century town of Ait Benhaddou, a Unesco World Heritage site, which has served as the locale for so many films, from Indiana Jones to Babel, that half the population (3,000) of the adjoining area are extras ready to don costumes from a royal Nubian (Jewel of the Nile) to a Bedouin (Lawrence of Arabia) or Yunkai (Games of Thrones).
After lunch of barley soup, egg tagine and fresh fruit, we approached the ancient clay structures of the kasbah (translated as fort or citadel) built into a hill. The Hollywood investment here has meant the kasbah looks frozen in time, closely resembling what it did centuries ago when it was first constructed as a Almoravid caravanserai, providing shelter to travellers crossing huge swatches of the country.
We approached via a small parched river and hopped across two forks of water using the sacks of red earth laid out as stepping stones. We entered through a large imposing gateway and climbed the maze of narrow paths between a medley of doorways that had once led to lodging houses and homes, but now shelter only tourist gifts and eager stallholders. At the top we stopped by the ruined agadir and gazed out across the dry arid, stony desert land.
With a slight smile Ibrâhîm said he knew a shortcut back down and led us to a tiny hole at the bottom of the surrounding wall, which looked more like a drain to me! “You go first,” he merrily offered and so, with a little suspicion, I did. Not content with this, he then led us around the edge of the kasbah walls and proceeded to climb the huge hill not far from the site. After we reached the top and recovered our breath, we thanked him because the views from here were glorious, with the kasbah set against the red desert and bright blue sky.
32k down the road and we approached the first desert city, Ouarzazate. We passed two huge movie studios and continued through the well maintained highways of the city (looked after so well because the beloved King often visits here) to the more windings roads of the Valley Of The Roses. We reached the high glory of Dades, with its towering deep red cliff faces, valleys and riverside oases and kasbahs.
After a delicious (and huge) dinner of vegetable couscous and chicken tagine followed by five oranges, we spent the night at the Hotel le Vieux Chateau du Dades.
Life Well Travelled 